Michael Cawood Green
OLDER THAN TIME
...this land is not the sweet home that it looks,
Nor its peace the historical calm of a site
Where something was settled once and for all....
W.H. Auden, `In Praise of Limestone', 1948.
Anyone would have built a house here,
Laid out a village even,
As the Mine did.
Nothing really nestles in the Western Transvaal,
But if this ridge
(Like the others that break this high, bare expanse
Pressed against more sky than you have ever seen
Was too rocky for such comfort,
Its casually protective arm
Still made a pleasant corner
On the bare sandy tract west of the Mine -
So, Westdene, our home of a hundred or so houses,
Tin-roofed red-brick green-doored and framed houses
Neatly neighbouring the other
Tin-roofed red-brick green-doored and framed houses
That are the share of the wealth
Squeezed out of earth and men
That is due to our
Rank and race.
And if, now, the perspective
Provided by this position
Is dominated by the shine and angles
Of the steel and corrugated iron
That is the surface symbol
Of Blyvoortuitzicht's Number Two shaft,
Still, it is a happy prospect indeed
For those of us who live to extract a living
Out of that which supports us,
Whose dependence is
Poised
Between the impenetrable
And the need to penetrate.
This situation, however,
Finds its order
In another arrangement
Infinitely older and more substantial
Than the relations of its surface;
And the reasons behind choosing this place,
Behind the aesthetics of perspective
And the demands of practicality,
Did not take into account all the laws
Governing this place.
These are simple (when understood)
But more important,
Unnegotiable.
For example,
This ridge is here because it is quartz
And quartzite does not easily erode;
And the flatness that it embraces
Is flat because it is yielding dolomite.
This is why, in Plomer's Transvaal morning,
`Shoulders of quartz protruded from the hill
Like sculpture half unearthed';
No less in ours, and
This much, more prosaically,
We knew - even more,
That the plain face of dolomite,
The tempting domesticity of its
Scoured surface smoothness,
Is eaten out from within by conflicts
Older than poetry,
Older even than the politics
That made the year in which Auden wrote
His poem in praise of dolomite's near-relative
So significant for us.
Like limestone, dolomite dissolves in water,
So holes,
Eaten out by water,
And now filled with water,
Form in it too a secret system of caves and conduits
That in places (and this we did not know)
Is all that supports a surface
Seemingly secure enough
For the weight of our efforts
To sink through this
Mild medium of soft moist stone.
For us dolomite contained no geology lesson,
No extended metaphor for a faultless love
Or the life to come;
No, for us it was of significance only
For its position between us
And the aurifierous conglomerates
Beneath.
And who can blame us
For ignoring dolomite?
Here under the Far West Rand,
Under the bland facade of its flatness,
Lurks the temptation of twenty percent
Of the world's gold;
Blyvoor's near neighbour,
We remind those who have not heard of us,
Is West Driefontein,
The largest single producer of gold in the world.
So,
So what if dolomite,
Especially Transvaal dolomite,
Is for you notorious,
If by 1979 Dr Brink in his textbook
Could count thirty eight dead
And point to damage sustained on these
Honey-coloured surfaces
As more severe
Than on any other geological formation
In Southern Africa?
He could only tell you that this sort of thing
`Accelerated in the Far West Rand in the last fifteen years'
Which dates retrospectively
From his first edition, precisely
The innocence of our year
As far as dolomite
Was concerned.
Oh, we knew of sudden subsidences, creating
Cylindrical, steep-sided, and usually circular holes,
But to us these were, at best,
History.
Our forefathers, Voortrekkers,
Called these ridges the Gatsrante
Because of the abundance of karst features to be found here;
And anyone could read -
As every one of us did before Smuts
Disappeared up his holism
And betrayed us -
In Deneys Reitz's book
Of how he hid his whole commando from the British
In a hole near where Doornfontein Mine is now.
But that was then,
Local colour for the anecdote
That embroiders the stern tale of how we came to belong here,
Details that stitch together our claim to the land
And the unexpected treasure blanketed beneath it.
If you were to leave even history behind,
And talk like the anthropologists of the `valuable hominid remains'
Preserved in the much, much older holes of
Makapansgat, Sterkfontein, Swartkrans,
Well we, for whom time was a thin line between Alpha and Omega,
For whom history had to begin and end
To frame the limits of our minds' ability
To contain the cause and effect that explained us,
For whom God marked the outer edge
Of the failure of our imagination,
We, you see, did not believe in
Evolution.
Of course, when that three-story crusher on West Driefontein mine
Disappeared with the morning shift of twenty nine in October 1962,
We suffered with our more famous neighbour;
And when Schutte's house became Schutte's Depression in 1963
It all came closer home.
And so we began to pay more attention to humble dolomite,
Which kept its network of levels and pressures
A mystery between us and our gold;
We started to inquire, even as we pumped and pumped,
Into the economy of water,
That nuisance factor that dolomite introduced into our operations:
Found that certain of those groundwater compartments
Touched our level,
Slept just below the surface,
And reached up for us with tunnels
That remained choked with chert - as long, that is,
As the water table remained static;
Found that what we conceived as our solid base
Could be a bridge,
A delicate span on which,
Poised above eternity,
Clumsily we carried out
Our earthy exercises;
But, and so they comforted us,
Even under these conditions
Our circumstances could be
Strong and stable for a long, long time -
A long, long time, that is,
Unless the water levels
Dropped....
We had to keep on pumping, of course;
And so the game began of finding out
What was arch and what was earth -
Which we could only do by thumping the ground
With heavy machinery
And measuring the response;
All well and good,
But the arithmetic only worked if you were above a hollow -
Your sums could tell you solid tales
When feet away a drum waited to sing out
Its emptiness.
But still we pumped,
And as the last water trickled away,
Sensitive to the commands of our technology
(While knowing better),
The unforgiving order of things
Called in our debts,
Drew in our surface reality
To fill a deeper logic,
Longer than our chronologies;
Made us submit to a scale upon which
Our sense of duration
Hardly registers,
Those rhythms and patterns of
A history which almost
Stands still.
Those stories older than time
Taught us of borders more significant
Than any we had drawn
In the languages of history, geography, or ethnicity,
And brought these things so crushingly vast
Home to the delicacy
Of domestic detail.
Yes, anyone would have laid out a village here,
Built a house, even
Moved his love - wife, children, all -
Into the shadow of that protective arm,
Never suspecting how it could all slip through,
Soil through his fingers,
Water from his hands.